Jagannatha Svami Nayanapathagami Bhavatu Me
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| --- compiled by Dr. Chintamani Rath |
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There seems to be an intimate connection between food and music. The one is sustenance for the body, the other sustenance for the soul. Both manifest themselves in a myriad flavours, textures and genres. Again, most musicians are naturally good cooks though the converse cannot possibly be said with equal emphasis. Both cooking and music making are arts, with attendant sciences, philosophies and skills. To top it all, ancient Indian musicological texts have often resorted to examples from the culinary arts to illustrate a point in music or dramaturgy... The two eastern Indian provinces of Bengal and Orissa share a common culture but yet grew in different cultural and political directions in history. Bengal, especially the northern and central parts of Bengal (the southern part of Bengal being too flood-prone with mighty rivers frequently breaking banks, no classical culture could develop there), was more easily accessible over land in the medieval ages. As a result, the first Muslims came as conquerers in the 12th century AC (Bakhtiyar Khilji) and thereafter, Bengal became more and more a Muslim stronghold and the people of the province became more and more Islamised. From the 18th century AC, European settlers began appearing on the scene in Bengal and finally the British captured it and made Calcutta in the southern part of Bengal their capital. Indeed, Calcutta remained the capital of India until 1911, when the capital was shifted to Delhi. The Bengal province in India is more accurately called West Bengal: what used to be East Bengal became East Pakistan in 1947 and Bangladesh in 1971, being a Muslim majority area gouged out of India on the strength of that fact alone, in spite of the Bangladesh district of Khulna, which was and still is a Hindu majority area -- one among many insensitive, monumental and tragic blunders made by Cyril (later Sir Cyril) Radcliff, the British civil servant who hastily and uncaringly drew, within a span of forty eight hours, the fateful red line across an outdated map of India that created Pakistan out of India and resulted in the worst holocaust in history resulting in the death of about 15 million people -- two and a half times the number killed during the fearsome Nazi regime of the Third Reich). On account of the Islamisation of Bengal during medieval times, many traditional Hindu centres disappeared. The people of Bengal were (and are) very openminded and receptive to all cultural influences from everywhere: they adopted and assimilated Muslim and European ways without much difficulty. As a result, Bengal had a close and advantageous relationship with the ruling class, be they Muslims of English. This openminded attitude was (and even today continues to be) almost entirely absent amongst the people of the neighbouring province of Orissa. The province of Orissa is situated along the northern end of the eastern seaboard of India. This province (or “state” as provinces in India are called) is unique in many ways on account of its location and its history. The name “Orissa” derives from its ancient name of “Odra” or, more accurately, “Audra”. Another ancient name for this province was “Kalinga”. During its heydays, the province extended from the banks of the river Ganges in the north (now in the province of West Bengal) to beyond the river Godavari in the south, to the present day town of Vijaywada (now in the province of Andhra Pradesh). The name “Vijaywada” itself is an Oriya (a word denoting the language, culture and people of Orissa) name: “Vijaya Bahuda”, meaning “return after victory”. The town marks the southern fringe of the territories annexed to Kalinga by conquest. The people of the Orissa of yesteryear were industrious, seafaring and adventurous. They travelled far across the ocean, trading, colonising and disseminating Indian culture. The Oriya influence is found all over southeast Asia, all the way to the many Indonesian islands and beyond. The people of Orissa were also respecters of tradition and culture. This is the reason why Orissa boldly and largely successfully resisted the Muslim and later the Christian onslaughts. Scholars from north India, fleeing the terrible Muslim persecutions of the ancient and medieval ages, found welcome and a safe haven in Orissa. As a result, Orissa was alive with a plethora of literary, philosophic, artistic and other cultural activity. When the province of Bengal became more and more Islamised, the kings and noblemen looked towards Orissa to invite Hindu scholars, priests and cultural exponents for their functions, festivals and scholarly projects. Consequently, many Bengali cultural manifestations may be traced to Orissa. For example, the well-known "Bengali icon" -- the Rassagula (a soft round sweet made of cheese and dipped in sugar syrup) -- originated in the Pahal village of Orissa, near Bhubaneshwar, the capital of Orissa. The major art dance of Orissa -- called Odissi -- practised mainly in the great temples of Orissa also found following in Bengal. The newly propagated "Gaudiya Nrittya" of Bengal, stated by some Bengali scholars to be the long-lost "classical" dance of Bengal, can easily be seen to be too similar to Odissi not to be believed but that it originated in Orissa. Not surprisingly, a culture as rich as to be found in the eastern provinces of Bengal and Orissa has its own very rich panorama of food suited for every occasion. Given below are a very few dishes that are commonly prepared in Oriya and Bengali households. It is interesting to note that these dishes are at once household dishes and gourmet dishes, fit for daily home consumption and grand feasts alike. The spices are indicative only and no quantities are mentioned because any quantity within a reasonable range works, as does any combination of spices, each combination of spices and their quantities maiing its own unique flavour. The golden rule in this context is: "less is better than more". As a general rule of thumb, no spice should exceed in quantity the amount of salt to be used. For the time being, finger food (snacks), desserts, savouries like "Pampada" (quaintly called "pappadom" or "poppadom" outside India) and "Badi" and sweets (of each of which genres there are scores of preparations) are being left out here. The dishes following are divided into:-- A. Vegetarian dishes and B. Non-vegetarian dishes “Vegetarian” includes all ingredients except fish, seafood, meats, chicken and other birds and eggs. The term includes dairy products like milk, curd (‘yoghurt’), cheese, butter, etc. “Non-vegetarian” food is all food that is not vegetarian. A. Vegetarian: 1. ALU CHOKKHA MUGGA JAI (Mashed Potato and fried yellow lentil)
This particular way of making mashed potato is peculiar to Orissa. 2. MASURA DALLI (Red Lentil)
- Shred onion and/or garlic; set aside. 3. HARAR DALLI
This is an ancient and traditional Oriya preparation, offered to the main Deities in the great temple at Puri
- Wash lentil, soften in microwave (10 minutes or so) 4. CHANA DALLI (Split pea lentil)
- Heat oil, add bay leaf, red chilli, cinnamon, cloves 5. DALMA (Vegetables in lentil)
Another Oriya favourite 6. CHARU (Soup from the province of Orissa -- one of several varieties)
- Soak tamarind for a day, mash and make a paste, add water, salt, turmeric, hingu 7. BAIGANA BHAJJA (Fried Brinjal/Egg Plant)
- Slice Brinjal, mix salt and turmeric 8. ALU PHULLAKOBI (Potato and Cauliflower)
- Chop Cauliflower into suitable sizes, cube potatoes, wash, set aside 9. ALU DUM (Curried Potato)
- Peel potatoes, shred onion and garlic, set aside, chop tomato 10. PATRAKOBI (Cabbage)
- Fine-shred cabbage, dice potato, chop tomato, set aside 11. ALU MATAR (=Potato and Peas)
- Peel and chop potatoes, shred onion, garlic
- Add onion, garlic, powdered cumin, powdered coriander, Garam Masala, turmeric, salt. Mix thoroughly. Stir occasionally for about 5 minutes, taking care spices do not stick to bottom of utensil. If they stick, add a little (very little!) water and lower heat. 12. GAJJA MÜGGA (Sprouted Müng beans)
- Soak whole Mügga lentil (also known as Müng beans) for 18 hours, changing water after 12 hours 13. SANTÜLA (BOILED VEGETABLES)
- Cut peeled potatoes, cauliflower, spring onion, camsicum, brinjal, carrot, and/or other vegetables, set aside
(Notes: a. No turmeric powder is used in this one 14. RAJMA (Kidney Beans) - Soak kidney beans beforehand for about 36 hours, changing water at least once in between
- Shred onion, garlic, tomato, set aside 15. HALLÜA
This is a sweet item. Serve either as a snack or as a dessert. 16. TOMATO SWEET CHUTNEY
- Fry broken cashew nuts and raisins (sultanas) 17. RAITA (yoghurt based dessert)
- Peel and shred cucumber; set aside - Add cucumber, mix 18. SIKIRINI
Another traditional sweet item, offered in temples to the Deity and prepared on auspicious occasions. The Oriya version is given here: it can be had as a food. The Bengali version is the same except that the flour is uncooked; in this latter form, only small helpings are recommended (not to unduly challenge the stomach!) 19. PÜLLARNA Sour rice: a great favourite on special occasions. 20. KOBIURNA Cauliflour rice. (Notice the absence of the umlaut over the 'u': 'u' here is as 'u' in 'but' and not as 'u' in 'put', in which latter case the umlaut would have been used!) 21. CHAÜLA KHIRI Rice pudding, eastern Indian style: a delectable dessert. 22. KHECHÜRI Rice and lentil -- one of several varieties. When rice is cooked with lentil added (with or without vegetables), the result is Khechuri. 23. POLAU Rice without lentil -- One of several varieties. When rice is cooked with vegetables or meat but without lentil added, the result is Polau 1. CHICKEN CURRY – 1
- Shred onion and/or garlic, tomato; set aside. 2. EGG CURRY
- Boil eggs, peel; set aside 3. CHICKEN CURRY – 2
- Shred garlic, chop tomato, set aside 4. FISH CURRY
- Wash fish thoroughly, marinate with salt and powdered turmeric, deep fry, set aside 5. KEEMA (Mince)
- Marinate mince with salt and turmeric 6. CHINGURI CHARCHARI (Shrimp and vegetables fried)
- Fry shrimps lightly in oil, set aside. (If using frozen shrimps, first immerse in warm water until thawed and then squeeze out excess water), set aside 7. CHINGURI MALAI CURRY (Shrimp in coconut cream)
- Fry shrimps lightly in oil, set aside. (If using frozen shrimps, first immerse in warm water until thawed and then squeeze out excess water), set aside 8. MAÜNSHA GOLMARICHA TARKARI (Mutton/Lamb Curry - with golmaricha = pepper)
- Cut mutton (= lamb meat or goat meat) into suitable sizes
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